When the Desert Calls…
Fifty years ago, a young singer-songwriter from Melbourne packed his guitar and headed north to the desert. Barry Skipsey didn’t just find a new audience — he found his place. This year, he returned as one of the performers to Central Australia’s Desert Song Festival — or, as it’s now proudly known, the Kwarta Tuma Festival.
Half a century is a long time, but in the heart of the Red Centre, time feels different. For the First Nations people of Central Australia, connection to Country stretches back tens of thousands of years — a bond woven through stories, song lines, and ceremony. Their connection to the land isn’t just physical; it’s spiritual, emotional, and eternal.
Maybe that’s the desert’s quiet magic — not the dust or the sunset that turns the sky to fire, but the endless brilliance of the night sky stars that remind you how small, and how lucky, you really are.
Perhaps it’s something deeper — that same magnetic connection that’s drawn both Indigenous custodians and wandering artists like Skipsey to the heart of Australia for generations.
Trading Luxury for Red Dust
Enter Marcus and Mandy — Bron’s brother and sister in law, recently retired, who decided it was time to ditch the luxury five-star stays. They wanted to experience the desert “youthful midlife travel” style. We were happy to help!
How did it go? Maybe it was the million stars at night, but let’s just say they’ve already started planning their next outback four wheel drive adventure — the legendary Gibb River Road.
Why the Outback Called Us Back
As I often tell travellers: a city is a city anywhere in the world — but the Australian outback? That’s what makes Australia truly unique.
So if you’re feeling the whisper of the desert yourself, here are some bucket-list adventures worth answering the call for.
(And no pressure, but as the red dirt roads are slowly being sealed with bitumen, now might be the time to experience the real outback — before the dust disappears.)
1. Perth to Cairns via “The Outback Way” — Australia’s Longest Shortcut
At just under 5,000 kilometres, this diagonal cross-country route runs from Perth in the southwest, through Uluru, to Cairns on the northeast coast.
It’s mostly gravel (for now), but surprisingly easygoing — a dirt highway with a story at every stop.
Expect:
- Campsites tucked behind iconic outback pubs
- Sculptures stretching for kilometres across a shimmering salt lake
- A ghost town where the population is one publican and one horse
- Fiery sunsets over Uluru and Kata Tjuta
- The mysterious Min Min Lights
- Natural hot springs under a million stars
- The dinosaur capital of Australia
- And finally, the lush tropics of Cairns, gateway to the Great Barrier Reef
It’s the ultimate road trip for those who like their journeys with a little grit — and a lot of magic.
2. The Desert Song / Kwarta Tuma Festival – Central Australia
If five thousand kilometres sounds a bit much, meet halfway. Each September, the Desert Song Festival brings together musicians and cultures under the rugged walls of Ormiston Gorge. The acoustics of the natural amphitheatre are something else — a spine-tingling harmony of voices, cliffs, and wind.
Make it your anchor for an outback loop — with the Queensland desert festivals adding even more rhythm to the red sands.
3. Birdsville Big Red Bash – The World’s Most Remote Music Festival
Each July, a temporary city of ten thousand people rises out of the Simpson Desert for three nights of music under the stars. It’s dusty, loud, and utterly unforgettable.
After a short break this year, the Big Red Bash returns July 7–9, 2026.
Given the challenges facing large outdoor festivals, I’d call this one a “do it while you can” experience.
4. The Gibb River Road – The Kimberley’s Crown Jewel
Notorious for its rough conditions and notorious tyre tales, the Gibb River Road is equal parts challenge and reward. But with good preparation, a dash of patience, and a respect for corrugations, you’ll be treated to some of Australia’s most spectacular gorges, waterfalls, and swimming holes.
Final Words of Advice
If you’re planning your own outback adventure — especially if you’re visiting from overseas — feel free to reach out. I’m always happy to share tips, routes, or just a bit of encouragement.
And remember, whether you’re newly retired or simply restless, you never know what’s around the next dusty bend. So go on — just do it. And if it feels a little out of your comfort zone? Even more reason to just do it.
Watch the Video: Highlights from the Kwarta Tuma Festival, a breathtaking flight over Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre, and Marcus & Mandy reflecting on their first true outback adventure.
1 comments On How A Retired Couple Traded 5-Stars For A Million Stars
Thanks for the Outback update.
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