A Road Trip Through Victoria’s High Country: Beauty, Adventure, and Insight

The campfire offered little relief from the chill of the evening, as another cold night loomed ahead. Our journey into Victoria’s High Country was a stark departure from our usual preferred destinations. Australia’s outback—with its warm, dusty embrace—might seem like the logical escape from the southern winter and early spring chills.

The thought of enduring the alpine region of Victoria, still thawing from winter’s grip, in a canvas topped camper was met with some reluctance. Yet this was a part of Australia that beckoned, promising something different. The red dust of the outback would be exchanged for the fresh alpine air, the majestic mountain ranges, and instead of dry riverbeds, flowing streams brimming with life.

It had been fifty years since my last visit to the High Country— it was then a wild, youthful dash from Adelaide to the alps for a weekend of skiing. After work on Friday, we’d drive through the night, ski all weekend, and then start the return journey Sunday evening, just in time for work Monday morning. It was an exhausting yet exhilarating blur.

This time, our trip was far more relaxed. Without the snow, there was no need for chains on our tyres, and we had time to appreciate the journey. Reflecting on my past memories, the now lush green spring landscape reminded me of eastern Canada’s striking seasonal contrasts: the stark beauty of a snow-filled winter giving way to the vibrant greenery of summer. The Victorian Highlands was now showcasing its own version of a vivid, rich green springtime splendour.

Our first destination was the Great Alpine Road, a 339-kilometer stretch that winds through Australia’s highest year-round accessible sealed road. The journey winds through towering mountain ranges, steep valleys, dense forests, and finally into rolling vineyards. As we ascended the winding roads, my initial doubts about the trip began to leave. This part of the country felt like stepping into a living oil painting, its richness and beauty so captivating.

No trip to the Great Alpine Road could be complete without a visit to the famed Brown Brothers Cellar Door. Reclining in bean bags on the shaded lawns, sharing a chilled bottle of wine and a selection of locally made cheeses was a perfect, indulgent pause.

Beyond the striking mountains, our journey took us to charming villages, each with its own story to tell.

The quaint village of Harrietville held a special purpose for our visit. Sitting on the river’s edge, we watched the water gently tumbling through the heart of the village and shared a quiet moment of reflection. This was the spot where my daughter’s best friend and her family gather to celebrate the life of her brother, his ashes scattered in the stream. As we sat there, I was reminded of a humorous memory involving my granddaughter. She once announced during her Monday morning talk at school that she had “thrown her Nanna in the river!” While it surely raised a few eyebrows in the classroom, it was, of course, her way of saying we had scattered her Nanna’s ashes.

Further into our travels, we arrived in Beechworth, a town steeped in 19th-century gold rush history and offering a glimpse into the era of bushranger Ned Kelly. Bright followed, with its colorful streets, vibrant energy, and abundance of cafes. Finally, in Omeo, the historic goldrush-era buildings signaled a transition from alpine grandeur to the rolling grazing fields of East Gippsland.

But perhaps the ghost of Ned lingers on we thought? One night, our peaceful adventure took a startling turn. Well past midnight, after a pleasant evening chatting around the campfire, we were jolted awake by the sharp crack of a rifle echoing through the still valley. Moments later, in the pitch-black darkness, a car pulled up beside us. It was an eerie, unsettling experience. Fortunately, our imagined return of Ned Kelly and his gang turned out to be a false alarm—they soon moved on without incident.

While we avoided a bushranger encounter, we couldn’t ignore another conflict brewing in the Kiewa Valley. Protest signs dotted the length of the valley, a stark contrast to its pristine natural beauty. Conversations with locals revealed the source of discontent: plans to install a massive lithium battery power plant in the heart of the valley. With no clear benefits for the local community and significant concerns about the potential fire risk in a bushfire-prone region, the community’s frustration was profound.

By contrast was our experience in Mansfield. We happened upon the town during its youth festival weekend. We were delighted to watch young people performing, playing, and engaging the crowd in the lively, stall-lined town centre. Ben, the local publican, explained how hard the community work together to make events like this happen, his pride evident. After coincidentally winning the pub’s game of Chase-the-Ace, Ben graciously loaded us up with $200 worth of wine. It was easy to see why we loved this town!

The High Country is a popular destination for four-wheel drive enthusiasts, but much of the region is accessible with conventional vehicles. One notable exception was one of the highlights of our trip: Craig’s Hut. The final stretch of this destination involves thrilling, steep climbs up into the mountains. With some newly formed brake pedal like impressions pressed into the passenger side foot well, our arrival revealed the infamous bushman’s hut perched atop a breathtaking outlook. This iconic location served as the backdrop for the film “The Man From Snowy River”

The cold nights of the High Country may have been biting—so much so that we could only bear fleeting glimpses of the star-filled sky. Layered in double doonas and flannel sheets, we huddled through near-freezing temperatures. But the sunny spring days more than made up for the overnight chill, offering warmth and light that showcased one of Australia’s most stunning and unique regions.

What truly enriched the trip, however, wasn’t just the scenery but the people of Victoria we met along the way—their stories, warmth, and friendship.

Next time however, we might delay our journey by a few months and in the meantime enjoy the outback’s warmer winter. But the High Country has left its mark—a reminder of the beauty, contrasts, and connections that make Australia so special.